My F-150 was at the dealer today for the deep sleep mode battery snag. The sheet says they test drove it afterward. Now the funny thing is the odometer shows exactly 0.2 km LESS than when I arrived. I’m puzzled…
If one wishes to check for bearing play by moving the wheel flange, it couldn’t move unless the axle bolt is absent. My understanding is, the axle bolt would hide a potential bearing play. If this is correct, a potential bearing play adds an undesired force on the axle bolt. No play = no stress...
I truly appreciate your explanation. Bearing play can only be detected when axle bolt is absent. Therefore, if bearing have some play, it will cause an undue stress on the axle bolt.
Ok maybe I am not using the proper wording then. The rotating part that has 6 studs, on which my wheel is bolted, - that part - cannot be bolted to the axle tube. Else it could NOT rotate! So, what is it that holds that rotating part when the bolt (subjected to the recall) breaks?
According to the recall, if the bolt shears, the hub cannot depart the vehicle. Hence, the culprit bolt is not there to retain the hub. Earlier I asked how the hub is retained, sounds like only the bearing assy is sufficient without the bolt. Please someone enlighten me :)
Spline shaft pressed in a matching splined hub. A bolt to unite the two, with gap between the bolt head and the shaft end. I thought the purpose of a spline, was meant to be free to slide axially. If the gap is intentional, I don’t understand Ford 3/4 floating concept… Hence, I doubt a lower...
Lots of good observation on this post. I’ve read everything I could find on the subject, everywhere I could find some, including youtube presentations. Now, three questions come to mind:
1- In a 3/4 floating axle, what is stopping the wheel hub from sliding out of the housing, whether with or...
It makes me wonder if it’s financed by Ford, maybe they have the right to keep it in order to prevent possible further damage. That could be a real problem for someone traveling, to discover the bolt is broken 3000 miles away from home…...
I just checked my rear leaf springs: it‘s a 2+1 pack (my mistake was to take a brochure description…) :)
Cooling capability is « supposedly » enhanced in the HDPP. I couldn’t find if it is identical to other models you mentioned.
Many components can be changed to improve a truck capability...
FYI, the HDPP has a whole lot more than an additional leaf spring:
- Frame: HDPP gets the 0.11" frame stock compared to 0.10" for heavier non-HDPP trucks and 0.087" for lighter F 150s (most of the 2.7EB trucks)
- Front coil: stiffer than any non-HDPP truck but the same front axle rating (3800...
I started thinking the same after reading various threads re: battery. Next time I use my compressor, I will follow your advice. Thanks for the quick reply :)
After reading multiple posts concerning the proper way to charge the vehicle 12 V battery, It makes me wonder how should I properly connect a 30A Viair compressor for airing up (after driving in the sand). I did it once, connected directly to both battery terminal, engine idling. After I...
My pickup truck has the V6 EB engine (twin turbo). I average 16 miles per US gallon WITH the camper on board, driving at approx 65 miles per hour.
Assuming you wish to respect maximum approved truck capacity, table found on tech spec sheet is unreliable. Correct payload is on the door jamb...
I have a 2022 F-150 HDPP, with a max GVWR of 7850 lbs. I weighed it on a scale with GF, dog, camper, gear, full of gas, water, propane, etc. It came up to 7650 lbs, just 200 lbs below max. I made absolutely no mods to my truck suspension at all.
Since one year of ownership, most of my driving...
I own a F-150 with the 400W/100W inverter under the rear seat. I recharge my Yeti Goal Zero accumulator (from my camper) while in Park but did not dare to try it while driving. The service clerk at the dealer doesn’t know if it can safely be done. Is there someone knowledgeable who knows the...