Recirculation won’t stay on - keeps turning randomly off!

[Pedaldude]

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[DIY1978Guy]

I was thinking something I could make on a 3d printer and put in between the actuator and the lever. A model that has either a manual or electrical connection that allows you to put the door anyway you want, while the actuator and the programming THINKS its still getting the better of you. A little over the top I am sure but if I can do it, I will sell yall my product! LOL

 

[DIY1978Guy]

That made me LOL!!

 

[UGADawg96]

Annoying and overzealous are understatements; the recirculate self canceling is infuriating and I have barely driven my truck this winter, mainly because the Toyota 4Runner that I also drive minds its own damn business when I turn recirculate on. Is it easier to subvert the top speed governor than the anti-fog scheme?

Monstrous and inconceivable is more in line with Ford’s bizarre execution of this diabolical aberration forced upon us.

There’s enough of a workload driving safety in the city that I don’t need any additional distractions. The fact that other people are already distracted is exactly why I don’t want to be burdened anymore than I already am.

Once again, there’s already a button for that!

There’s a fair amount of information on page two and three. The way I see fixing it is either a kill switch on the door to lock it in whatever state it was last in. Or maybe even an in-line module right before the switch with a flip-flop in it that would actually remember when you press the switch and then turns it back on when the light turns off.

I’m thinking for my next road trip though, that I might just tape off 90% of the fresh air inlet under the hood.

 

[scuba]

I was thinking something I could make on a 3d printer and put in between the actuator and the lever. A model that has either a manual or electrical connection that allows you to put the door anyway you want, while the actuator and the programming THINKS its still getting the better of you. A little over the top I am sure but if I can do it, I will sell yall my product! LOL

I will buy. Willing to pay hundreds for a solution I don't have to invent myself.

 

[408sbfmustang]

Was there ever a way for FORScan to change this?

 

[Zyvin]

Well, I finally gave up on finding a Forscan solution. Disabling the anti-fog strategy works pretty well when it’s hot outside, and you’re running the a/c; but not so much with cooler outdoor air.

I live in Charleston S.C., so we only have about 4 weeks below 80F, lol. But last week I drove to Charlotte, and had to hit the recirc at least 100 times; and I got fed up .

I installed a switch that basically interrupts the + (forward) of the air inlet door (green and orange wire in the diagram). I wired it with a backlight separate (as you do not want to introduce voltage). Therefore, the switch has 4 wires, two that just break continuity to the inlet door and two that just run the light. So, my light is on all the time (when dash lights are on), and switch is either pressed or depressed to activate.

I put in a Sasquatch switch that I had lying around. I also removed the 12v socket to hide the button since I’ve never use it. My original plan was to put it next to the usb port in the phone tray, but I didn’t want to pull the console today. You could really do this with a simple unlit switch that can be hidden away, pretty much anywhere, but I wanted it to look silly. Plus, if you’ve ever smelled a wet Sasquatch like I have; then you know you need recirc on.

Basically, I hit the recirc button to close the door, then I can depress the switch and it will stay in recirc as long as I want. The hvac recirc will time out eventually, and the recirc light will go off, but the inlet door will remain closed. To reopen, just press the Sasquatch to the locked in state and it will work as dumb as intended (you may have to cycle the recirc button as the inlet door just didn't get the last command). It's easier to just hit recirc first if it is off, then hit sasquatch to restore continuity.)

 

[scuba]

Well, I finally gave up on finding a Forscan solution. Disabling the anti-fog strategy works pretty well when it’s hot outside, and you’re running the a/c; but not so much with cooler outdoor air.

....

@Zyvin So grateful for your effort. I will try to copy your work this weekend.
Questions (as best as you know-- I know you didn't design the truck):
1. Is there only one fresh air inlet door, so that fixing this does the trick? (when I considered physically chasing down a solution, I had visions of multiple inlets that I'd be unable to see/reach).
2. I can't make-out the green & orange wire in your picture. Did you take any other pics while it was open you could share? Same on the circuit diagram-- I think the forum re-sized that down, if you can re-post, or let me know where to find that. (I'm a noob)
2a. Which wires did you choose for your backlight power?
3. My setup is a little different (e.g. I have a fuse for the 120v where you have your 12v outlet), is there a way I could confirm I have the correct wire, before cutting, if my wires are different colors? Like should I look for a wire that shows a +12v on my multimeter when recirc is active, and zero when un-pressed?
4. Any issues removing that HVAC face from the dash? Just a couple of trim clips?
5. Finally, let us know a paypal email address or some way we can send our thanks.

 

[Zyvin]

@Zyvin So grateful for your effort. I will try to copy your work this weekend.
Questions (as best as you know-- I know you didn't design the truck):
1. Is there only one fresh air inlet door, so that fixing this does the trick? (when I considered physically chasing down a solution, I had visions of multiple inlets that I'd be unable to see/reach).
2. I can't make-out the green & orange wire in your picture. Did you take any other pics while it was open you could share? Same on the circuit diagram-- I think the forum re-sized that down, if you can re-post, or let me know where to find that. (I'm a noob)
2a. Which wires did you choose for your backlight power?
3. My setup is a little different (e.g. I have a fuse for the 120v where you have your 12v outlet), is there a way I could confirm I have the correct wire, before cutting, if my wires are different colors? Like should I look for a wire that shows a +12v on my multimeter when recirc is active, and zero when un-pressed?
4. Any issues removing that HVAC face from the dash? Just a couple of trim clips?
5. Finally, let us know a paypal email address or some way we can send our thanks.

1. There is only one inlet door for the outside air. There are many other doors/flaps but they just direct the air to whichever vents you have selected.

2. I'll see if I have a better picture. But the green/orange wire is #24 on connector C228A which is the HVAC plug that has a zip tie on the connector. Technically you could interrupt the Blue/gray wire as it is the "-", but I just picked the "+" side of the motor. Current just runs in one direction or the other to open and close the flap. I am not sure what the actual voltage is that moves the motor (i.e. it could be 5v or 12v for all I know, and it would be a temp signal, so it wouldn't be the easiest to just read with a meter). My old 2018 wiring diagram shows green/orange as well, so I'd wager $100 bucks that yours is the same, lol.

2a. Most of the panel lights use a violet/gray for the backlighting and black/violet for the ground, so almost every plug back there has that combination as well as the media hub/trailer brake, etc. You can test the violet gray as it will be 12v with backlighting on, and you can ohm out the black/violet to ground to make sure, but I am positive those will work. **Do not use the violet gray wire on the Hvac plugs as it is for the sunload sensor. Just use one of the other plugs I.e. trailer brake controller, media hub etc.

***Note: if you just use a simple SPST switch without back lighting you can not worry about finding those, I just did it for fun. But make sure your switch can separate the lighting from the actual push button part. Some switches only light when pressed in and you do not want your 12v back lighting to send 12 volts to your air inlet motor. The switch that I used can be wired either way.***

3. See #2. You really could cut the green/orange and tap in the switch and try it out before trying to get the lighting etc. working. I didn't do anything with my 12v plug wiring, I just taped it up behind the dash. I have the center console with the sliding tray cover etc. so I didn't have many options to place the switch, that is why I chose to replace my 12v socket. You have more options down at the bottom of your console it seems.

4. I had to pull off several trim pieces. I just used some plastic trim tools and went slow and easy. First take off the horse shoe trim around the radio, then the side panels, then the long skinny piece, then the 4 screws holding in the hvac module.
5. lol, I get tons of info here, I’m just trying to contribute my part.

 

[scuba]

Edit / update feb 26th:
This picture ( C228B) is the wrong connector. I'm editing instead of deleting in case it helps someone. The correct connector, as Zyvin said, is C228A.



Holy crap, there's a "green with brown stripe" and "brown with green stripe." Feels like the end of The Abyss. @Zyvin , your picture is pretty clear that the correct wire is green with brown stripe (mostly green", but if you're online and can confirm while I've got the dash open, I'd appreciate it.

I'll send pics of the slightly diff procedure (and harness) for the non-console guys. (the order of wires seems slight different-- was trying to use that as a double-check)

 

[Zyvin]

Holy crap, there's a "green with brown stripe" and "brown with green stripe." Feels like the end of The Abyss. @Zyvin , your picture is pretty clear that the correct wire is green with brown stripe (mostly green", but if you're online and can confirm while I've got the dash open, I'd appreciate it.

I'll send pics of the slightly diff procedure (and harness) for the non-console guys. (the order of wires seems slight different-- was trying to use that as a double-check)

I sent you a PM. That looks like the C228B connector and mine was in the C228A connector.

 

[Porpoise Hork]

I will buy. Willing to pay hundreds for a solution I don't have to invent myself.

My experience with Ford's re-circulation anti-fog strategy system.

I gave up on trying different Forscan options and tested a myriad of cabin filters to see if any of them would work ending with this . It stops about 98-99% of gas exhaust and about 90% of diesel fumes. Interestingly enough the fumes are even less if I leave the AC off with the heat on than if the AC is left on and it flips to fresh air. It does restrict the airflow a little more than your standard filter so I only run it in the 2.5 weeks of winter Houston gets and swap to a standard Hepa filter for the other 11.75 months of the year. Since it has baking soda in it I put it in a big zip-lock bag for storage.

 

[UGADawg96]

My experience with Ford's re-circulation anti-fog strategy system.

OMG that is the perfect gif for their idiot strategy.

 

[scuba]

There it is gents-- my sasquatch switch. We owe a lot to Zyvin for this.

 

[Zyvin]

There it is gents-- my sasquatch switch. We owe a lot to Zyvin for this.

Looks like it’s meant to be there…nice.

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